网红的街头摆拍算什么？时尚街拍博客开山鼻祖告诉你什么才是真正的街拍。

说到斯科特·舒曼（Scott Schuman），对时尚圈略知一二的人都会知道这位美国大名鼎鼎的街拍博客开山鼻祖、备受时装界青睐的时尚摄影师、《GQ》、法国版《Vogue》、《Esquire》等时尚杂志特约编辑、全球第一街拍博客The Sartorialist的博主。在他的镜头下，街上的普通人也能被拍出模特穿搭、明星气质。

Today, street-style photography is so ubiquitous it’s hard to remember a time when it wasn’t a thing. But in 2005, when Schuman started to document people on his blog The Sartorialist, as a sideline to the fashion showroom he ran in New York, it felt wildly exciting, despite the fact the likes of Bill Cunningham and William Klein had been doing similar work decades before.

如今，街拍无处不在，让人很难记起它曾经是什么样子。但2005年，舒曼开始在他的博客The Sartorialist上记录他的街拍作品，作为他在纽约经营时装展厅的副业，让人感到非常兴奋，尽管（《纽约时报》的御用摄影师）比尔·坎宁安和威廉·克莱因等人几十年前就做过类似的工作。

“I’m not just chasing likes. There’s no one thing that piques my interest – people don’t have to be ‘fashionable’. But if someone is dressed in a wacky way, it needs a sincerity to it. I’m picky: I might be out for six or seven hours and get four shots – and that’s a good day.”

“我不只是在追求点赞。没有什么能激起我的兴趣——人们不必‘时尚’。但如果有人穿得很古怪，那就需要认真对待。我很挑剔：我可能要在外待上6到7个小时，只拍出4张照片——而那是美好的一天。”

Indeed, the pleasure of his blog and Instagram feed is in the details: the way a woman’s hair is tied; a well-rolled sleeve; an elderly man in a rakish hat. He often shoots in places such as India and Peru. “Good street photography is about capturing characters,” he says.

的确，他的博客和Instagram动态的乐趣在于细节：一个女人束头发的方式；卷得非常好的袖子管；歪戴帽子的老人。他经常在印度和秘鲁等地拍摄。“好的街头摄影就是要捕捉人物，”他说道。

▲‘I’m not just chasing likes’: at home with The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman (via The Guardian)

2005年，舒曼开设了他的时尚博客The Sartorialist，并因其对时尚纽约人的街拍而出名。而在他的第四部摄影作品《裁缝师：印度》（The Sartorialist: India）中，舒曼为我们展现了一系列取材印度的肖像作品，其中大部分作品都是妙手偶得、意外之喜。

In India, you dont need to go far to find drama. Step out on the streets of any city, and the spectacle of the everyday will ambush, if not overwhelm, you. Sometimes all you need is to turn around -- an idea that comes alive in Schumans book.

在印度，你不需要走多远就能找到亮点。走到任何一个城市的街道上，每天精彩瞬间都会埋伏在那里，如果不会让你应接不暇的话。有时候，你所需要的只是一个回眸转身——这是舒曼在书中表达的想法。

Schuman seldom follows the conventions of the fashion photography genre. "I have the eyes of a costume designer," he said on the phone from his home in New York. "I want to show what clothes can tell us about the person wearing them."

舒曼很少遵循时尚摄影流派的惯例。“我有一双服装设计师的眼睛，”他在纽约的家中接受电话采访时说道。“我想表达的是，衣服能告诉我们穿衣服的人是什么样的人。”

The photographer has been visiting India since 2008 to cover fashion weeks. But some of his most memorable shots came not from runway shows, but while he was driving around in a car, or walking aimlessly in the streets.

自2008年以来，这位摄影师一直在印度拍摄时装周。但他最令人难忘的一些作品并不是来自T台秀，而是当他开着车在街上转悠、漫无目的地在街上闲逛的时候。

"In India, people on the street are more open to being photographed than in Western cities. (Most people seemed) happy about being seen and recognized," observed Schuman, adding that Italy may be the only other country where he feels people are so at ease in front of camera.

舒曼观察到，“在印度，街上的人比西方城市的人更愿意接受拍摄。（大多数人似乎）很乐意被人看到和认可。”他还补充说，他觉得意大利可能是唯一的另一个人们在镜头前表现得很自在的国家。

▲A fashion bloggers guide to Indian street style (via CNN)

与多数人认为的，时尚就是华服、时尚需要用金钱堆砌不同，舒曼觉得时尚就是个人风格。

Schuman feels theres a misplaced notion in the West that "you cannot have a sense of style if you dont have money." The diversity of sartorial choices he witnessed on Indian streets, and the resilience with which people made the most of limited resources, defied this, he said. Be it in big cities or in small villages, the Indians he encountered made "informed personal decisions" about the clothes they wore. "There seemed to be a lot of pride in dressing up," he added.

舒曼认为，西方有一种错位的观念，即“如果你没钱，你就不会有时尚感。”他说，他在印度街头观察到的服装选择的多样性，以及人们充分利用有限资源的弹性，都与这种观点背道而驰。无论是在大城市还是在小村庄，他遇到的印度人对他们穿的衣服做出了“明智的个人决定”。他补充道：“人们似乎对自己的装扮感到非常自豪。”

▲A fashion bloggers guide to Indian street style (via CNN)

舒曼希望通过他用镜头对印度街头时尚的诠释，人们能够对印度产生好奇。

In the best traditions of street photography, Schuman mines forces otherwise hidden from our untrained eyes. His India isnt cloyed with exotic charm, nor it is blighted by poverty to the exclusion of all else.

在街头摄影统中，舒曼从我们未经受训练眼睛中挖掘出力量。他镜头下的印度既没有异国情调的迷人之处，也没有被贫困所摧残而被排除在一切之外。

Rather, he conveys the joie de vivre at the heart of Indias streets, even amid obvious signs of want and misery -- the innate sense of style with which people create their individual statements from often meager means.

相反，他所传达的是印度街道中的生活乐趣，即便有着明显的贫困和痛苦的迹象——一种与生俱来的时尚感，人们往往以贫乏的方式创造自己的个性宣言。

"My book isnt an encyclopedia," Schuman said. "But I want it to make readers curious about India."

“我的书不是百科全书，”舒曼说道。“但我希望它能让读者对印度感到好奇。”

▲A fashion bloggers guide to Indian street style (via CNN)

你喜欢印度街头普通人的时尚吗？

文：Du Qiongfang

资料：The Guardian, CNN

图/题图：Scott Schuma, 网络